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Aszú, szamorodni and furmint – Tale-telling sips

Borsod-Abaúj-Zemplén region Traditional liquides
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Hungarian wines have been known throughout Europe since the 1200s and their rise had been growing since King Matthias and attention soon turned to the Tokaj varieties. In a letter of inheritance issued in 1571, for example, a batch of aszú wine is mentioned; however, the description of aszú production was only completed somewhat later in the 1600s and it is attributeed to pastor Máté Szepsy Laczkó (an ancestor of the presently highly renowned Szepsy wine-making family), who presented his landlady with a noble sweet wine made from aszú grape berries in 1630. The popularity and export of the wines made in Tokaj-Hegyalja became outstanding in the 18th century. The nectar from Tokaj often filled the glasses even in the court of King Louis XIV of France. During one of the dinners when Tokaji wine was served as a drink, the Sun King honoured the prince and Tokaj by saying, "Vinum regum, rex vinorum", i.e. "King of wines, wine of kings".   From then on the wine became popular in the courts of several kings and the tsar; moreover, it was later realised that its moderate consumption had beneficial health effects. It was mostly used for the treatmeant of gastrointestinal and nervous complaints, the prevention of anaemia, cardiovascular diseases, increasing physical resistance and its favourable effects on bone formation thanks to its high phosphorus content. At the end of the 1800s it was also featured in Hungarian pharmacopoeias as "Vinum Tokajense Passum".  
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Although Tokaj wine region has gained its world fame mainly for its sweetest varieties, such as aszú, szamorodni and the essence, excellent dry wines are also produced in the region due to the characteristics of the production area. Tokaji Furmint, Tokaji Hárslevelű, Tokaji Yellow Muscat or Tokaji Zeta (Oremus) are sold almost exclusively in a pure form and they can be classified as high quality or special. A batch can be given the latter attribute if the sugar content of the must used as the raw material for the wine reached 19 must degrees. Wines of special quality classification include sweet wines "made from shrivelled grapes” or “of late harvest”. Tokaji Aszú has always been the most widely known and most recognised variety in this category and one of the most famous Hungarian products. This comes as no surprise as the soil in Tokaj is special: clay or loess soil over volcanic subsoil, a microclimate defined by the sunny southern slopes and the Tisza and Bodrog rivers, which supports the formation of Botrytis cinerea (noble mould) and the subsequent botrytisation of the grapes.   The reputation of Tokaj wine region is propelled by such names as the previously mentioned Szepsy Cellar, harvesting their noblest wines from vines planted more than forty years ago, or István Balassa, who not only offers an insight into his most delicious wines but also takes them on exciting tours along the vine hills, where we can get to know the magical natural features of Tokaj-Hegyalja. Kikelet Cellar harvests tasty wines in the Tarcal areas and, while in Mád, you should visit Gábor Kardos Winery or Lenkey Family Winery but we could continue this list endlessly.  
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